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“My family’s roots are also the foundation of my wines.” With his winegrowing estate in Cortina sulla Strada del Vino, Manuel Taddei has committed to going back to those roots. He is a third-generation winegrower, and he firmly believes that the character of a wine is always influenced by the people working on the estate. And its development, too: “A mix of patience, endurance, and passion helps us to grow continuously and improve our estate,” says Manuel Taddei.
In 2013, he replanted his grandmother’s vineyards in Val di Cembra, which had been lying fallow for more than 50 years—another testament to his return to his roots.
Because it is not just the reuse of old vineyards that is so special, nor is it the “cross-border” cultivation in Cortina in Alto Adige and Val di Cembra in Trentino. What is really special is the location of those vineyards: The area under vines of newly planted Müller-Thurgau is located at approximately 900 meters above sea level; the area where Taddei has planted Sauvignon vines, at approximately 750 meters. Taddei’s range of varieties is completed by Chardonnay.
2022 saw the first harvest brought in at the Manuel Taddei Winegrowing Estate in Cortina sulla Strada del Vino. “We are striving to create extraordinary and harmonious high-quality wines that are full of character,” says Taddei with regard to his philosophy. That also means that the wine is given all the time it needs to mature and unfold its potential. Accordingly, the Müller-Thurgau and Sauvignon wines go on sale one year after the harvest whereas the Chardonnay even takes two and a half years to mature.
The Hof Pomaria estate in Caldaro has an unusual name which refers to the Latin “pomus,” which means “fruit tree.” That comes as no surprise: the estate is located in the Palude di Caldaro area and is surrounded by orchards. But the Rellich family business has a second leg to stand on, and not just in the geographical sense: the grapes, which are then single-handedly matured into top-quality wines, are cultivated in Cortaccia.
Regarding wine, Klaus Rellich took over from his ancestors, who had been cultivating grapes and making wine for generations. Rellich uses an area of approx. 1,500 square meters for that. “The calcareous gravel and loamy soil in the hills of Cortaccia create ideal prerequisites for winegrowing; moreover, the sunny site and good ventilation are conducive to bringing forth excellent grapes,” explains the winegrower, who cultivates Pinot Blanc, Merlot, and Schiava grapes in his vineyards.
The reference to the excellent suitability of the area for winegrowing is not just a marketing trick employed by the Rellich family, by the way: it is historically documented. The old field name “Frauenrigl” was already mentioned in very old documents; today, it is the single vineyard that forms the foundation of the wines produced—and mainly sold—at the Hof Pomaria estate in Caldaro: from Pinot Blanc and a classic Schiava to a Merlot Rosé.
Two geographical locations that share an ancient connection come together at the Wieserhof Estate Winery in Völlan/Foiana. One of the two vineyards of the winery is located in Völlan above Lana, the second vineyard in Castagnara-Masetto near Lake Garda. But what is so special about that? Both vineyards have been connected by an ancient trade route for about 3,000 years now, which is why the Wieser family named its wine project after this route: La Traversara.
Hubert Wieser and his wife, Silvia, have been working on the “La Traversara” project for about 20 years now. They are the second generation to work the land at the Wieserhof estate. And their daughters Maya and Emma are now the third generation on the Wieserhof. The family produces four wines, which, just like the vineyards of the Wieserhof, are connected in many different ways.
Both vineyards—the one in Völlan and the one in Castagnara-Masetto—are located at approximately the same altitude (600 meters above sea level) and are home to the same two grape varieties (Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc). “The grapes of both vineyards and both varieties are aged in an identical process in wooden barrels, but they turn into four very characteristic wines, which each tell their own, unique story,” explains Hubert Wieser.
Again, that perfectly fits the Wieserhof Estate Winery from Völlan, which also tells us a story: a story that started approx. 3,000 years ago and tells us of the fusion of two geographical locations and cultures.
Less is enough: Klaus Schroffenegger only needs three short words to describe the philosophy behind the HochKlaus Estate Winery located in Karneid/Cornedo all’Isarco above the city of Bolzano/Bozen. This does not come as much of a surprise, because Klaus has always been a no-nonsense type of guy. “I let nature speak for itself. In my opinion, a winery has a natural cycle that I want to disturb as little as possible,” he says and adds: “I want the finished product to be authentic, honest, and vibrant.”
His parents, who have been tending to the vineyards for many years, laid the foundations for the HochKlaus Estate Winery. Klaus Schroffenegger is more than grateful for all the work they did: “Taking care of a vineyard means investing a lot of time, energy, and patience,” he says, “and having old, healthy vines makes your life considerably easier.”
Thanks to his parents being in the same business, he not only got healthy, strong vines, but also acquired a profound knowledge of the world of wine growing – and when we say “world,“ we mean it literally: Klaus Schroffenegger gathered experience in Australia, the United States, and France before taking over his parents’ business.
His philosophy of “less is enough” is not only his credo out in the vineyards but also down in the cellar. All wines produced at the HochKlaus Estate Winery are subject to spontaneous fermentation, come without any additives, and are not filtered before bottling.
The young winemaker uses clay amphoras to make sure none of the terroir is lost. “Our wines are absolutely vibrant, which perfectly reflects our passion for typicity and our close connection with nature,” says Schroffenegger.
Blueberries, apricots, cherries, peaches, plums, pears, apples, chestnuts, but also fruit spreads, juices, syrups, and preserves: there is hardly anything you cannot find at the Runsthof in Lana, situated directly by the hiking trail from Lana to Foiana. So it is hardly surprising that the Lobis family, who has run the Runsthof since 2017, also cultivates vines as well as produces wine in their own cellar—at least in part.
The vineyards which supply the grapes are located above Lana on a steep slope, which means that cultivation depends very much on manual labor. But no matter how strenuous, it guarantees a very special kind of quality control, seeing as the winegrowers are, quite literally, very close to their grapes.
At an altitude of 350–500 meters, a broad range of grape varieties grow on those steep parcels of land, and they are ideally suited to the site. At the Runsthof in Lana, the favored grape varieties are Pinot Noir, Sauvignon, Sauvignon Gris, Bronner, and Chardonnay. “The location and the climate are ideal for very special wines which retain their own special characteristics typical of the variety but whose flavors also bear hints of the terroir,” explains Günther Lobis.
By the way: winegrowing, like all other work at the Runsthof, is a family affair, as the estate is run by Günther Lobis, his wife Helga, and his daughters Johanna and Lisa. Diversity is very important, after all.
The motto at the Michael Puff winegrowing estate in Cornaiano is “Keep it chill!”. The addressee of that instruction is not, however, the founder of the winegrowing estate of the same name but the vines, some of which are grown in high grass here: wild shoot distribution, no pruning, and as little defoliation as possible. “Our method is unconventional, but our ultimate goal is always to put the vines under as little stress as possible,” says Michael Puff.
And Michael’s philosophy in the cellar is not much different: his wines are spontaneously fermented in concrete barrels and then aged for twelve months in small oak barrels before they go back in the concrete barrels for another six to nine months. “We are going entirely without fining and filtration in the bottling process,” says Michael Puff, “so our wine is very much a no-frills product.”
Michael Puff founded his own winegrowing estate in Cornaiano/Ronchi in 2020 after completing vocational training at the Laimburg professional school, some internships at winegrowing estates and wineries, and conducting experiments at his own parents’ estate. Today, Michael’s winegrowing estate is based on locations in Cornaiano/Ronchi and Appiano Monte. He has focused exclusively on Pinot Noir—and a vision of fresh and new Pinot Noir stylistics.
The Pinot Noirs from the Michael Puff winegrowing estate bear a dragonfly in the label that symbolizes elegance, power, and timelessness—and is also at home on the winegrowing estate.
Engadiner Wines, located in Gleno in the municipality of Montagna, is a fairly young wine estate—in more than just one way: Under the brand “Engadiner Wines,” the Zelger family started to produce wines, each of them imbued with a distinctly unique character, from their own grapes as recently as in 2021. And the Zelgers themselves are still young both in age and spirit and turned their hobbies – nature, agriculture, and wine – into a family business.
The Engadiner Wines wine estate has two locations. One of them is the family estate in Gleno, a location most famous for its Pinot Noir. Located in the south of Alto Adige at an altitude of 650 meters, their vineyards benefit from intense sunshine during the day and cooler temperatures at night. These fluctuations in temperature produce fresh, elegant wines.
The estate’s second location is their wine gardens in Ora, located at the valley floor, where Lukas Zelger mainly grows Lagrein, as the soils rich in porphyry and the comparably high temperatures are especially beneficial for this variety.
In addition to their varietal Pinot Noir and Lagrein, the Engadiner Wines estate also offers a Kerner characteristic for the variety. “It is our philosophy to produce wines typical of the terroir and true to our standard,” explains Lukas Zelger.
Edmund Pomella could have chosen an easier path: As a third-generation winegrower, he had the opportunity to take over a thriving winery in Cortaccia in 2016. The vineyards boasted old grapevines of classic varieties, so it seemed a no-brainer to just continue as it was. Yet what he wanted was something more natural. Pomella is passionate: passionate about nature, passionate about protecting our environment. And, as a consequence: passionate about natural, digestible wines.
But Edmund Pomella also values old treasures, so he decided to graft the vines in his vineyards, some of which are up to 100 years old. The old rootstocks formed the basis for modern PIWI varieties: Bronner, Johanniter, Muscaris, Souvignier Gris, Prior, Cabernet Cortis. These varieties can be cultivated without using chemical pesticides. And Pomella did not only keep the rootstocks, he also continues to use the old pergola training system, which offers significant benefits in locations exposed to intense sunlight and scarce in water.
Cultivating natural wines helps accomplish two goals simultaneously: Promoting human well-being without harming nature. And it doubles the quality: “This is not just about the quality of our wines but also about quality of life, respect for nature, our vines, our soils, and all life on our planet,” says Pomella, who also offers farm tours and runs his own farm store, where consumers can buy his wines and other natural products.